10 skincare ingredients to have on your radar

With advances in formulations and an emphasis on actives, it pays to be skincare savvy – but how do you decide which ingredient is best suited to your particular skin concern?

Take your pick from the best skincare ingredients that all dermatologists love. These are the glow-getters, the moisture-maxers and the complexion perfectors that get. The. Job. Done. 

Use to ✓ Brighten  ✓ Tighten  ✓ Protect

Best for Hyperpigmentation, premature ageing and acne-prone skin

What is it? A potent antioxidant proven to boost collagen, revive tired, stressed-out skin, reduce redness and protect skin from UV damage, inflammation and daily stressors.

Apply AM or PM

Use to ✓ Unclog pores ✓ ‘Iron out’ wrinkles ✓ Even skin tone

Best for Anti-ageing and acne-prone skin

What is it? This five-star ingredient is proven to renew, regenerate and smooth skin. ‘Retinol has become known as an anti-ageing ingredient,’ says advanced skincare and laser specialist Debbie Thomas. ‘But for me, it’s a healthy skin ingredient. Wait around 8-12 weeks to see an improvement in acne, pigmentation, lines and skin quality.’ For a more in-depth look at retinol, aka vitamin A, read our expert guide.

Apply PM 

Use to ✓ Protect ✓ Repair 

Best for All skin types

What is it? You can layer on active ingredients, spend thousands on skincare, but it won’t make a real difference if you don’t use an effective SPF, every day. Sun damage is responsible for an estimated 90% of the ageing in our skin, making it a non-negotiable. It even guards against rosacea flare-ups and irritation. Put simply, your skin needs it. We have a whole expert guide on SPF – that’s how important it is.

Apply As the final layer in your daily AM routine and reapply every two hours 

Use to ✓ Soothe ✓ Soak ✓ Plump

Best for All skin types, especially thirsty faces

What is it? A moisture magnet and large molecule naturally found in our skin, hyaluronic acid attracts water – making it an incredibly powerful moisturiser. It’s non-comedogenic, meaning it doesn’t clog pores, and fast-absorbing, and is best applied to damp skin (which gives humectants, like hyaluronic acid, something to hold on to).

Apply AM and PM

Use to ✓ Smooth ✓ Firm ✓ Brighten

Best for All skin types, especially exhausted faces

What is it? Small chemical compounds made up of short chains of amino acids (the building blocks of proteins in the skin, such as collagen and elastin), peptides remind the skin to make more collagen – which ultimately translates as giving skin more ‘bounce’. ‘Peptides help to restore and firm, and are great at attackling lines and wrinkles. And they repair damage,’ says facial therapist Nataliya Robinson. 

Apply AM and PM

Use to ✓ Calm ✓ Unclog ✓ Smoothe 

Best for Sensitive, uneven and blemish-prone skin

What is it? Your new favourite ingredient, azelaic acid calms redness and irritation, fading acne marks and brown spots, and smoothing skin texture at the same time.

Apply AM and PM

Use to ✓ Even ✓ Brighten ✓ Clarify

Best for Enlarged pores and uneven skin tone, and sensitive faces

What is it? Niacinamide is a more gentle alternative to vitamin C – particularly good if you have rosacea or are eczema-prone. A non-sensitising vitamin B3, use it to even out and brighten your skin for a healthy-looking glow.

Apply AM and PM

Use to ✓ Plump ✓ Smoothe ✓ Firm

Best for Replenishing all skin types – even the most sensitive, breakout-prone, or oily

What is it? Like the mortar between the cell ‘tiles’, ceramides are lipids found naturally in the skin. ‘They’re very important for skin health,’ says facial therapist Nataliya Robinson. ‘Ceramides help form the skin’s barrier, protecting it from external aggressors while keeping moisture in. Without them the barrier is compromised, which can lead to dryness and irritation.’ As with most of our skin’s natural ‘youthifiers’, ceramides deplete as we age.

Apply AM or PM

Use to ✓ Unclog ✓ Clarify ✓ Calm

Best for Breakouts, blemishes, bacne and acne-prone skin

What is it? The most popular of the BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is a chemical exfoliant used to penetrate pores, fight bacteria and calm breakouts. One for oily, congested skin, both BHAs and AHAs have been proven to enhance the effectiveness of other products in your routine too. More on this below…

Apply AM or PM

Use to ✓ Resurface ✓ Smoothe ✓ Brighten

Best for Dull, hyperpigmented and lacklustre skin

What is it? The grande dame of AHAs (that’s alpha-hydroxy acids), glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant that ‘eats’ dead skin cells and boosts collagen. Apply three times a week (or when skin needs instant glow) to tackle the signs of ageing, dullness and sun damage. AHAs can be combined with BHAs to target stubborn cystic acne, clogged pores and deep-set wrinkles.

Apply AM or PM