Ghost: how the cult 90s brand has made a stylish comeback
The British brand has undergone a renaissance and is more wonderfully wearable than ever
It’s almost unheard of for a brand to return to the forefront of fashion and not only appeal to the generation that wore it, but the next one, too. Which is why Ghost’s renaissance is so remarkable.
The British brand, founded by Tanya Sarne in 1984, quickly enjoyed success with effortless, feminine designs that you could wear from day to night and which wouldn’t crease easily. Slinky, bias-cut slip dresses were its signature. ‘I was too young to wear Ghost the first time around,’ recalls Hannah Almassi, Editorial Director of Who What Wear UK. ‘But I remember it being this special, ethereal thing that cool, grown-up girls were lucky enough to own.’
One of those ‘lucky girls’ was Shelly Vella, Fashion Director of You magazine and a self-confessed Ghost devotee. She sat front row at the brand’s London Fashion Week shows, where the collections, ‘ghostwritten’ by a team of in-house designers, were modelled by a young Kate Moss. ‘For me, it was love at first sight as the clothes were fluid, bohemian and embraced a delicious colour palette. They were also easy to layer and flattering in their trademark bias-cut viscose.’ Shelly boasts a collection of more than 100 Ghost pieces, including her wedding dress.
Ghost eventually carved itself out as a destination for wedding gowns and elegant bridesmaid attire rather than ready-to-wear, and in 2006 Tanya Sarne left the brand. Under new ownership since 2008, Sameera Azeem was appointed Creative Director three years ago. In that time, she has propelled Ghost back into the spotlight via the wardrobes of bloggers and celebrities. But rather than replicating the archive, Azeem has introduced an entirely new proposition: bold colour and riotous floral motifs.
‘She’s updated the brand with modern prints and influencer-friendly cuts,’ says Shelly, who has embraced the fresh direction. ‘Every time I wear Ghost, people ask me what I’m wearing.’ The popular dresses, which favour a midi-length, long-sleeve silhouette, really pop – even on the smallest of mobile phone screens, hence why they’ve proved such a hit on social media. They work just as well with trainers as with heels for say, a wedding or night out, making them ideal for women juggling a busy lifestyle. ‘Figure-flattering clothes in uplifting colours can be elusive, and that’s where Ghost excels,’ says Shelly.
This view is echoed by Hannah, whose Instagram posts of her in new-season Ghost are met with admiring comments. ‘Ghost’s original spirit is there, but with a wider range for those of us who aren’t 90s-style waifs. The weight of the fabrics, uniqueness of prints and careful pattern cutting come together to create wonderfully flattering dresses with the same throw-on-and-go attitude the brand always had.’
John Lewis & Partners stocks a large selection of Ghost online. Partner & Buying Assistant Billie Nichols believes the versatility of styling is key to the success of the revamped offering, which also includes blouses, midi skirts and wide-leg trousers. That, and hitting a sweet spot of being accessibly priced while not being oversaturated in terms of supply. ‘Our steer comes from finding brands that aren’t widely available,’ explains Billie. ‘We know our customers want to buy something special.’
