Cashmere 101: everything you need to know about buying and caring for it

While wool is harvested from sheep, cashmere is combed from the underbelly of Mongolian goats, where the cold conditions of the country’s high plateaux are just right for the animals. Only a limited amount can be collected per goat per year – approximately three to four ounces – meaning a single garment would need to be sourced from several animals. This makes cashmere sought-after and expensive. However, it is three times more insulating than wool and much softer to the touch.

John Lewis & Partners’ extensive range of cashmere is made from top-grade fibres that start out white. ‘White is the most prized because it’s the cleanest colour,’ explains Kate Bell, Partner & Senior Casualwear Designer. ‘Greige, which is cheaper, tends to be duller, so we use white and dye it to give the cashmere what we call a “bloom” – which makes it look more lively. We then spin a mélange of three, four or five different shades together just to make one colour.’

Cashmere is measured in gauges – the number of stitches a garment has per inch. For example, a 12-gauge sweater is lighter and finer than a seven or five, which would create a chunkier finish.

Every John Lewis & Partners’ piece is fully fashioned, which means that each panel is knitted to size as opposed to cut and sewn together, ensuring a more flattering fit. The delicate stitch detail you can see around a shoulder join or neck trim is known as a fashioning mark.

Made in Italy Cashmere V-Neck Jumper, Charcoal, £110

Depending on the product, our cashmere is either machine washable or hand-wash only, so make sure you check the care label. It isn't recommended to wash cashmere after every use, as it can damage the fibres. To extend the life of your cashmere, only wash when dirty.

Most washing machines now have a hand-wash setting, which can actually be gentler than conventional hand-washing as there is less chance of damage. However, it is down to personal preference.

• Hand-wash - if you choose to hand-wash, wash several garments in one go and start by ensuring that your sink or tub is clean and grease-free. Use lukewarm water and make sure your specialist detergent is fully dissolved before adding your clothes.
  
  Turn your product inside out and then gently swirl it around in the water for about 30 seconds. Let it soak for up to 30 minutes before rinsing with cold water. Gently squeeze the water through the fibres. Drain the dirty water and rinse with cool, clean water. Be gentle and avoid wringing or stretching your garment. 

• Machine washable - turn the product inside out and select a 30 degree delicate cycle. Use a mesh washing bag to protect against snagging.  Always use non-biological detergents specially formulated for wool and silk. Steer clear of fabric conditioner to avoid your knitwear thinning over time and developing holes.
  
  
• Drying - once washed, carefully reshape your item while damp but avoid twisting or wringing. Instead, carefully squeeze out excess water by scrunching into a ball. Finally, dry your garment flat. Cashmere should never be tumble-dried as the heat can cause it to felt and damage the fibres.

Here’s some additional tips to ensure your cashmere lasts longer:

• Pilling is a natural characteristic of cashmere and is not a sign of poor quality. We use the longest, finest fibres and any pilling that may occur will form longer, thinner bobbles which are easy to remove by hand or with a fabric shaver or cashmere comb. Lay the item flat, then comb in one direction over the affected area, using short, gentle strokes. Don’t do this too often or you risk thinning the garment.
• Hanging your knitwear can distort its shape over time. Instead, fold it flat.
• Moths love cashmere so keep them away by placing cedarwood balls in your drawers. Sanding them gently a few times a year keeps their repellent scent potent. You can also use lavender sachets to deter moths.
• If you’re stowing away pieces for summer, store them in a cool, dry place in breathable sealed bags, preferably cotton with anti-moth balls or sachets.