Rose reinvented: the modern perfumes breathing new life into a classic scent

When it comes to fragrance, rose has had a bit of an image crisis over the past few decades. It once anointed the wrists of the Ancient Greek and Egyptian nobility – Cleopatra was so partial to its charms, she ordered her room be filled with 18 inches of rose petals so Marc Anthony would think of her every time he smelt a rose. However, it seems to have fallen out of favour more recently. It may remain the symbol of romantic love the world over, but why have we fallen out of love with its scent?

‘Rose oil has been used in perfumes for centuries,’ says perfumer Ruth Mastenbroek. ‘Perhaps because of its consistent use through the ages, people think of it as old-fashioned.

‘This has also been exacerbated by the discovery of various rose-like synthetic ingredients in the 1970s, which meant that rose notes in fragrance became stronger and more synthetic, possibly tarnishing the reputation of natural rose oil.’

All that is about to change, thanks to a new wave of modern rose scents that are anything but uptight. ‘Rose has entered the 21st century with a bang,’ says Ruth. ‘When combined with new ingredients, it can really come to life in a much more modern way. I love to accent different aspects of rose oils: the citrusy Moroccan oil, or the fruity, deep Damascene oil. Combining rose oils with other florals or radiant woody notes can create some beautiful scents.’

If you’re not a huge fan of rose, there are tips for choosing a fragrance that might appeal. ‘Rose is an ingredient in so many fragrances – chances are you don’t even realise it’s there,’ continues Ruth. ‘And these days there are lots of options for totally new combinations. If you want a subtle feel, a tea rose can be a bit lighter than a more full-bodied rose, with fresh, green fruity notes in the top. Or look for names of fragrances that are combined with citrus. Discovering rich, heady combinations such as oud and rose will invite a whole new way of looking at it.’

In short, it’s all about discovering new scent combinations as well as looking for quality ingredients. Brands like Le Labo are disrupting this new fragrance landscape with their cult classic Rose 31, which is based around centifolia roses – one of the most expensive ingredients in the world. ‘We wanted to shake up this old lady, dust it off, and bring meaning to it in the 21st century,’ explains Fabrice Penot, co-founder of Le Labo. ‘We also had the ambition that men could wear it too. It became Rose 31, and started a strong trend in perfumery.’

If you’re a fan of warm, sensual fragrances that really come into their own after dark, try Tom Ford’s Private Blend Café Rose, a unisex offering that blends saffron, black pepper and may rose with Turkish rose, Bulgarian rose and coffee before mellowing down to a smoky base of incense, amber, sandalwood and patchouli. For rose that is anything but polite, dare to delve even deeper with Jo Malone London’s Velvet Rose & Oud Cologne Intense. This magnetic cologne combines damask rose with rich, smoky oud wood spiked with clove and praline.

If lighter, fresher fragrances are more to your olfactive tastes, try Philosophy Pure Grace Nude Rose Eau de Toilette. Soft and delicate, it boasts blush rose with clean dewy greens, neroli and bright orange flower with a touch of warmth by way of cedarwood and musk. For a zestier incarnation, go for Hermès Eau de Pamplemouse Rose Eau De Cologne, a mouthwatering scent based around the freshness of grapefruit mellowed with the delicate creaminess of rose. 

For a fragrance that spans both taste pillars, Frederic Malle’s Rose & Cuir is the one for you. Based around a modern, airy rose, freshness is introduced by way of bright cassis, geranium bourbon and timut pepper – all exclusively developed ingredients – while leather, vetiver and cedar cut through the purity of the rose and anchor it firmly in the present day. Our conclusion? It’s time to smell the roses.

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