A guide to the black-tie dress code for men

Male models wearing tuxedos, black shoes, and cufflinks in a collage.
Emma Ledger,-Contributing Editor

Looking for style inspiration for a formal invite? RSVP ‘yes’ and read on…

Whether it’s for a wedding, prom, gala or awards ceremony, nailing a men’s black-tie dress code can feel like hard work. There are confusing rules – such as never buttoning a jacket’s bottom button – and lots of decisions to make (who knew there were three types of lapels?! Notch, peak and shawl, FYI).

That’s where this black-tie dress code guide comes in handy; covering everything you need to know about tuxedos, shoes and accessories, you’ll not only look the part at any formal event, but also feel comfortable enough to exude quiet confidence while in attendance. 

A male model with tuxedo

What is black tie for men?

A black-tie invitation means just one thing: the tuxedo. Typically, this is a black or midnight-blue dinner jacket, matching trousers, a formal white dress shirt, a black bow tie or tie, and black leather shoes. To be clear, this is not your everyday work suit; it’s timeless eveningwear that is reserved for formal events.

How do you get a good fit?

The fit is (almost) everything when it comes to looking sharp in your tux. Even the most expensive suit won’t look good if it’s the wrong size for you (nor will it be comfortable). But how do you ensure a great fit? The John Lewis Suits Buying Guide is a fantastic starting point, explaining exactly where you need to measure and how. Want more personalised advice about what to consider when choosing a suit? Try our free Personal Styling service in-store, where John Lewis experts will guide you through all the details, from correct jacket lengths to the right shoes to finish your look.

A male model with John Lewis Peak Lapel Basket Weave Dinner Jacket

If in doubt, rent it

There are a few wardrobe pieces that are a true investment, and black-tie attire is one of them. However, if you think your formal invite might be a one-off, why not rent a fantastic suit for the occasion from John Lewis Fashion Rental? There’s a huge range of styles to choose from, whatever your budget – just remember to measure up accurately first.

Suits you, Sir

As the main component of a black-tie outfit for men, it’s a good idea to try on several different suits if you can. Although at a glance they may appear the same, tuxedos vary in cut and detailing – testing a few options out will help you to find one you really like (and feel good in, too).

A well-fitting shirt is also vital, because you might remove the jacket at some point. Tradition dictates that jacket sleeves should show a small amount of shirt cuff, so definitely think about your choice of cufflinks. Also, don’t forget that the crisp trouser crease is there for good reason: to help make your silhouette appear tall and lean. Ensure your outfit is perfectly pressed and ready ahead of your occasion. 

All in the details

To waistcoat, or not to waistcoat? That is the question. And it’s one that only you can answer – this is one black-tie accessory that’s really down to personal choice. The same cannot be said for cufflinks and a bow tie (or a tie), which are all must-haves. That said, each of these accents offers a great way to show your own individual sense of style.

Best feet forward

The right shoes are the defining element of any look. Again, there are some black-tie parameters: black patent leather lace-ups are the go-to choice. Choose well and keep them well-polished and this timeless footwear should last a lifetime.

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